There are mountains, and then there are mountains that call you. Reo Purgyil was one of those.

Towering at 6,816 meters (22,362 feet), hidden deep in the folds of the Himalayas, Reo Purgyil is not just the highest peak in Himachal Pradesh—it’s one of the least explored, least spoken about, and most underestimated giants out there. Few have dared to climb it. Fewer have succeeded. And yet, there we were—13 of us, standing at the edge of the unknown, hearts pounding, eyes set on a peak barely visible on most maps.

The Decision That Started It All

Our story started on August 5, 2024, not with ropes or boots, but with a decision—a simple “Let’s do it” between friends who shared a love for the wild. We began from Shimla, loaded with gear, dreams, and adrenaline.

But let me be honest—deep inside, I was scared.

I had never climbed beyond 5,000 meters before. Reo stood way above that. The doubts kept circling: Will I break down midway? What if I slow the team? What if I fail?

But something in me said: Face it. Prepare. Go.

So I changed everything. I trained every single day—10 km walks, cut out junk food, switched to a strict millet-based diet, drank more water than ever, and mentally prepared to be broken and rebuilt by the mountain. A month earlier, I had completed the Shrikhand Mahadev Kailash Yatra—a grueling climb to 5,227 meters (17,150 feet). That experience had taught me one thing: your body may be weak, but if your mind is strong, you can push beyond limits.

But here’s what made Reo so different—it was the mystery. There were no detailed routes, no GPS trails, hardly any YouTube videos, and barely any information online. The weather changed everything every year. Routes disappear, new ones form. It was like chasing a moving target.

A Team Ready for the Unknown

And yet, we were ready. We had:

• Three team members trained in Basic Mountaineering

• Two others with Advanced Mountaineering certification

• A local guide from Nako with full permissions and years of experience in these rugged terrains

• I took charge of medical support

• We had a chef who knew exactly what tired bodies needed

• The rest of the team? Strong, experienced, and hungry for something real

This wasn’t just a trek. It was a leap into uncertainty. A place where your phone stops working, your muscles scream, your breath shortens—and all you hear is your heartbeat and the crunch of your boots on loose rock.

Reo Purgyil wasn’t just a mountain. It was a mirror. It showed us who we were—our fears, our grit, our strength as a team.

And that was just the beginning.

The Road to Nako – First Glimpse of the Giant

To chase a mountain like Reo Purgyil, you first have to earn your way to its doorstep.

We covered nearly 300 kilometers to reach Nako village, winding along one of the most breathtaking—and humbling—routes in Himachal. The road traced the old, poetic path of Shimla → Narkanda → Rampur Bushahr → Tapri → Khab, following the backbone of National Highway 05 (NH 05). It wasn’t just a drive. It felt like slowly peeling back layers of civilization until all that remained were mountains, rivers, and the open sky.

The deeper we went, the quieter everything got. But the views? Unbelievable. The roads were clean, the air sharp with altitude, and the scenery looked hand-painted. If you’re seeing Nako for the first time, your eyes will probably ask your brain—Is this even real?

At an altitude of 3,625 meters (11,893 feet), Nako village sits like a jewel nestled in a cradle of clouds. We arrived around 5 PM, and just as we were taking it all in, the rain began to fall—a soft whisper at first, then a steady, rhythmic downpour. We took shelter in a room at the local government school, thanks to the warm-hearted locals who offered us a dry roof for the night.

Meeting Our Guide – Hearing the Legend

That evening, under leaking skies and steaming mugs of tea, we met our local guide for the first time. A man who knew Reo Purgyil like an old friend—and feared it like a god.

He looked at us with quiet disbelief, probably wondering Who are these young folks showing up for one of the hardest climbs in the Himalayas? But his skepticism soon gave way to stories—raw, real tales of past expeditions, near-misses, and narrow escapes. Reo Purgyil wasn’t just a mountain—it was a living legend.

That night, huddled together with wet socks drying near the window, we had our first team meeting. We planned everything down to the last detail: food, gear, tents, ropes, clothing, weight distribution. Each team member would carry 10 to 20 kg, depending on strength and role. We divided everything—because on this mountain, every ounce counts.

That meeting wasn’t just logistics. It built something unspoken: trust.

And when morning came, the sky opened up with the kind of clarity that takes your breath away.

Reo Purgyil stood in front of us—massive, still, watching.

We were finally here.

After a hearty breakfast at a local Nako eatery, we stood at the edge of the village with our bags packed and hearts racing. Before stepping forward, we did what the locals have done for generations—we folded our hands and prayed to Reo Devta, the guardian deity of the mountain. Not to conquer. But to ask for permission. For blessing. For safety.

Because out here, the mountain decides.

And with that prayer, our real journey began.

Camp 1 – Into the Rocks and Thunder

Our first goal was set: reach Camp 1, perched somewhere between 4,204 to 4,500 meters. Just 5–7 kilometers away from Nako—on paper, it didn’t sound like much.

But this was not your usual climb.

There was no defined trail. No forest, no footsteps to follow. Just boulders, raw earth, and endless rock under our boots. Each step tested our ankles and our determination. And yet, behind us, the views grew more surreal with every meter. The kind of scenery that didn’t feel like it belonged to Earth. The silence? So loud, it echoed inside you.

There were no trees, no people, no distractions—just us and the mountain, staring each other down. I had never witnessed landscapes like this before. Vast, alien, untouched. It made me wonder why this mountain wasn’t talked about more—why so few dared to climb it. But then I realized: This is why. The path was cruel. The climb was relentless. One step felt like ten.

By around 4 PM, we finally reached Camp 1. Our legs were screaming, backs heavy, breath short. But we had made it. We pitched our tents with whatever strength we had left and took some well-deserved rest.

Acclimatization & The First Brush with Fear

Later, we stepped out for an acclimatization walk, a crucial ritual at high altitudes. That’s when it hit me—for the first time in my life, I felt the sting of low oxygen. My heartbeat picked up, the air felt thinner, and I could feel a slight pressure building in my chest. It wasn’t panic—it was respect. Respect for this altitude, for this mountain, for this challenge.

We returned to camp for dinner, warm food settling in our tired stomachs. But just as we were winding down, the storm returned.

What followed was unlike anything I had ever experienced.

Lightning lit up the sky like a war zone—bright, violent, and far too close for comfort. The thunder roared through the mountains like a beast. Lying in my tent, every flash made my heart skip. I began to feel fear settle in. Should I descend tomorrow? Is this too much?

Sleep came in short, broken intervals.

But morning brought a new world.

The storm was gone. The sky was spotless. The sun poured golden light over the valley, and the temperature had dropped—biting but beautiful. We stepped out, quietly mesmerized by where we were. The fear of last night was still fresh in my chest, but no one spoke of it. That’s how it works in an expedition. We carry our fears silently—no negativity is allowed to ripple through the team.

We sipped our tea, ate our breakfast, and nodded at each other.

It was time for Camp 2.

⚠️ To Be Continued in Part 2…

This was just the first stretch of our Reo Purgyil expedition—the doubts, the silence, the wild beauty, the thunder and resolve.

In Part 2, we climb higher—where the air thins, storms brew again, and the summit begins to test more than just our bodies.

Stay tuned.

You can read our other article here.

The Risky Path: A Himalayan Expedition – Conquering Friendship Peak